This information is given under the restriction that only professional qualified technicians use this information to do repairs or modifications. No responsibility for any personal or material damage is taken by us and it's the full responsability of the person who uses this information to open, repair or modify any of the AH! products. The information is only provided to give the MAXIMUM aftersales service and is not intended to replace any assistance from us or our partners. The information is absolutely not given because of a high failure-rate, but simply because we feel that you, as the owner of the product deserves to have the maximum knowledge about it!
Before you decide to go and work on any AH!
or whatever other piece of electronic equipment):
1. Switch off all equipment with the on/off switch.
2. Remove all ac-cables from the ac-sockets.
3. Remove all other cables like interconnect cables, antenna cables and speakercables.
4. Make sure that you are connected with the same potential as the mass of the set via a
wrist wrap with resistance. Keep components and tools also at this potential. All
IC's and
many other semi-conductors are susceptible to electrostatic discharges (ESD). Careless
handling during repair can reduce life drastically.
Remove the 4 screws on the side of the machine and the 3 screws on the back of the machine with a T(orx) 10 screwdriver. Place the AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 with the back towards you. Lift topcover at frontside and pull backwards (keep 2 thumbs on top of the frontcover and the fingers of your both hands on the sides of the topcover). Place the topcover carefully on the side, away from the location where you are going to work on the AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000.
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Press open/close button to open the tray. If the tray doesn't work, turn counterclockwise a small screwdriver into the hole as shown in the picture. Then the tray comes out. After the first centimeter it is possible to pull the tray out further by hand. |
Release the doorcover of the tray by gently pressing upwards as shown in the pictures below.
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1. Read introduction and general instructions on the top of this page.
2. Connect your AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 to AC voltage.
3. Press open/close button to open the drawer.
4. While the drawer is open, disconnect your AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 from AC voltage.
5. Read and follow instructions to remove the front of the drawer as described earlier on this page.
6. After having removed the front of the drawer, gently push in the drawer by hand.
7. Read and follow instructions to remove the topcover as described earlier on this page.
8. Place your AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 with backside towards you.
9. Disconnect the single ground wire connected from the ECO SL Mk3 module to the bottomplate from the chassis.
10. Unscrew and remove the 2 Torx 10 screws which attach the back of the ECO SL Mk3 to the chassis.
11. Pull the ECO SL Mk3 gently towards you while lifting it up a little.
12. Disconnect the 3 ribboncables on the right side of ECO SL Mk3 module from the ECO SL Mk3 pc-board (seen from backside of your AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000).
13. Now the ECO SL Mk3 is totally free and can be taken out.
14. Mount a new ECO SL Mk3 mechanism by following the given instructions in reversed order.
This is certainly the most difficult part of this technical section. It needs to be done only if you are very patient and precise. However, it still can be handled by non-technical people by just following the instructions step-by-step. It is wise to study this full technical section before you start.
1. Remove CD Short Loader Module ECO SL Mk3 as described above.
2. Be sure to have a soft cloth in front of you.
3. Lay down the ECO SL Mk3 in front of you, facing the pc-board side and drawer into your direction (picture ...).
4. Very carefully turn the white nylon screw (picture ..) counterclock-wise untill you see the small arm of the nylon switch move to the left (picture ..).
5. Take out the Torx T-7 screw on the right side of the motor (picture ..).
6. Find the 2 plastic grips as shown on picture ..
7. Push a small flatblade screwdriver between the pcboard and the 2 plastic grips as mentioned at point 6 (picture ..) and gently pull the pcboard out of these 2 plastic grips (picture ..).
8. Turn the pcboard -like a page in a book- gently to the left. Attention! Not too far as you have a connecting foilcable between the pcboard and the drive-mechanism (picture ..).
9. The foilcable is locked in a white connector. Unlock the foilcable by gently pulling (your nails can be of help here) the moving part of this connector (picture ..). After unlocking take the foilcable out of the connector (picture ..).
10. Now you can turn the pcboard totally to the left.
11. Remove the textile tape on the sledge-motor (left top). Picture ..
12. De-solder the wires:
a. sledge-motor: white + blue
b. switch: black + orange
c. spindle-motor: green + yellow13. Turn the white nylon screw (picture ..) further counterclock-wise untill the drawer comes out.
14. Gently pull the drawer untill you feel it does not go any further.
15. Flip the full ECO SL Mk3 mechanism upside down.
16. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to slide out the transparent suspension rubbers of the drive.
17. Now you can take out the old drive and replace it with the new drive.
18. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to slide in the transparent suspension rubbers of the new drive.
19. Gently close the drawer.
20. Flip the full ECO SL Mk3 mechanism upside down.
21. Re-solder the wires:
a. sledge-motor. Left contact: white wire. Right contact: blue wire.
b. switch. Upper contact: black wire. Lower contact: orange wire.
c. spindle-motor. Left contact: green wire. Right contact: yellow wire.22. Remount the textile tape on the sledge-motor (left top). Picture ..
23. Turn the pcboard -like a page in a book- gently back to the right. Attention! Not too far as you still have to connect the foilcable between the pcboard and the drive-mechanism (picture ..).
24. Gently insert the foilcable as far as possible into the white connector. Lock the foilcable by gently pushing the moving part of this connector (picture ..). After locking the foilcable, check if you see the soldercontacts on the flatcable. You should NOT see these as otherwise the cable is not inserted deep enough into the connector.
25. Check to see if the small arm of the nylon switch is still in the left position (picture ..).
26. Slide the pc-board in its original position and -using a small flat blade screwdriver- lock it within the 2 plastic grips.
27. Carefully turn the white nylon screw totally to the right (clock-wise).
28. Reinsert and fit the Torx T-7 screw.
29. Reinstall the CD Short Loader Module ECO SL Mk3 as described above.
Checking which outputboard you have.There are two versions of the output board being used in the Njoe Tjoeb 4000. There is no mechanical or sonic difference between the two. The difference is shown in the pictures below. If you require a replacement output board for your Njoe Tjoeb, please let us know which socket your current board uses so we can send you the correct replacement.
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The other version has only three walls around the same socket. |
| There are originally two small fuses
located on the main output board. On many new boards, the fuses are replaced
by a solder bridge (see picture below). Looking at the rear of the machine,
they are located on the left, next to the gray wire bank which has the two
red and two blue wires running into it. Set your multimeter to measure
continuity (Ohms), and place the black and red points On F1 where the arrows
below direct. If you get a measurement, everything is fine. Do the same on
F2. If you do not get a measurement on either F1 or F2, contact us for further instructions.
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| Below is the diagram for wiring the Njoe Tjoeb 4000 for use with 110-120volt systems. If you have a dual voltage unit, this is the stock wiring schematic. |
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Below is the diagram for wiring the Njoe Tjoeb 4000 for use with 220-240volt systems. If you have a dual voltage unit and wish to convert your player over to 220 volt, change the wires around according to the schematic below. You will need a new power cord that fits the 220 volt socket. You will also need to change the fuse to 250mA Slow Blow. Please note that the white wire on the right-hand side is left disconnected. Use electrical tape to cover the bare wire for safety. Do NOT cut the wire! |
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Wago connectors are in fact spring-loaded connectors. This
means that once the wire is inserted in the Wago connector, it will be hold by
the springforce of the Wago-connector. Inserting and taking out the wire is a
matter of opening and closing the spring.
The spring of the Wago connector can be opened with a 3mm flat-blade screwdriver.
The 2 photographs show the 2 ways to open the Wago spring. One way the
flat-blade screwdriver pushes in the hole on the back and the other way the
flat-blade screwdriver pushes in the opening on the front of the connector.
Be careful not to insert the wire to deep as than you run the risk that the
spring holds in the isolation instead of the metal and no contact is made.
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The following pictures show the Wago connections used in the AH!
Njoe Tjoeb 4000 (220-240V situation).
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If you own a voltage-meter and know how to use it, you can check some AC and DC voltages in case you have a problem. The values are approximate and just given for right/wrong indication. For measuring positions, please check above pictures ahwago1, ahwago2 and ahwago3.
In case of doubt do not hesitate to contact us.
1. Disconnect AC cable and signal cables.
2. Remove cover as described before.
3. Remove the 2 tubes.
4. Disconnect all ribboncables from their connectors on the Njoe Tjoeb outputboard.
5. Disconnect the black/red wire from its Wago connector on the Njoe Tjoeb outputboard (CN4) as described before in this technical section.
6. Disconnect the 2 red and 2 blue wires from its Wago connector on the Njoe Tjoeb outputboard (CN3) as described before in this technical section.
7. Remove the 3 Torx T-10 screws at the following positions:
a. outside back at the analog output connectors;
b. outside back at the digital output connector;
c. on the Njoe Tjoeb outputboard between CN1252 and CN4.8. Now the Njoe Tjoeb outputboard is totally "free" and can be pushed towards direction cd-drive mechanism. By gently moving towards the square transformer, the board can be taken out.
9. Mount a new Njoe Tjoeb board by working in "reverse direction". Connections at CN3: 2 x red wire towards cd-mechanism side and 2 x blue wire towards backside. Colorcode position of black/red wire at CN4 is not important.
In case you have the feeling that 1 channel is reacting different from the other channel, it might be that the reason for that is a defective / noisy tube. Of course, before you think in that direction, you have checked and exchanged all external cables to find out if the problem can be found and solved externally. If that's not the case than you can check the tube by taking out the 2 tubes. Support your hands in such a way that you can pull the tubes straight up with very gentle side-moves. Also support at the same time the pcboard and try to avoid any bending of it. Exchange these tubes with each other to see if the problematic channel stays problematic or if the problem goes to the other channel. If the other channel becomes problematic you know that 1 tube is faulty. You can solve the problem by putting in 1 new tube (of the same brand and kind!!; we have always used Philips ECC88 6922 Jan Military Grade), but better is to replace both tubes. In case you consider to upgrade your tubes, ask us what we have in stock. Maybe we can spoil you and your Njoe Tjoeb 4000 with a pair of Siemens E288CC tubes. Expensive, but certainly the best available.
As you know we ship the (standard) AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 with Philips Jan 6922 NOS tubes. These "fit" in the design because of their acceptable price, reliability and availability. Next to that there are several other tubes you can use, if you want. Tubes from the 6DJ8 / 88 / 6922 family can be used. For Njoe Tjoeb owners who want the best we always try to have some Siemens or Philips E288CC tubes in stock. We also have Navigator 6H23n/eb NOS tubes available.
Another tube which seems to attract some Njoe Tjoeb 4000 owners is the 6N1P. This tube can be used as long as R15 (being 1 Ohm) is changed to 0 Ohm (take R15 out and replace with a small wire-bridge).
Untill about november 1, 1999, the AH! Tjoeb '99 had a relatively high outputvoltage (3.5V). We lowered this to 2.5V. Reason why we initially decided for 3.5V, was that during all initial listeningtests, the panels choose this setting as being the best, most favorable or whatever you want to name it. All the listeningtests were done with highest quality preamps, which apparently did not suffer from "overload".
The AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 comes factory preset with an outputvoltage of 2.5V. We do however supply the opportunity to choose for another (lower or higher) outputvoltage. For some AH! Tjoeb '98 and '99 owners we replaced the small blue output potmeters with fixed resistors. This was considered as being an audible improvement and for sure guarantees that you will never get dirty and/or noisy potmeters. Reason why in the AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 you will find another way to choose the outputvoltage (if you want). You now can readjust the outputvoltage without any other tools than a solderinggun, (eventually) a sharp knife and some good (2% or better) silversolder.
Attention! The following pictures are taken from an empty outputstage pc-board. That way it will be easier to find the location on the board.
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This part of the board defines the outputvoltage of the right channel. Notice the resistor definitions R40, R41 and R42. The picture shows 3 solderpads next to the locations of the SMD resistors. For the factory set output of 2.5V a (standard) connection is made between R40 and the solderpad next to it. The spaces between R41, R42 and the solderpads next to it are open (this means: no connection exists). |
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This part of the board defines the outputvoltage of the left channel. Notice the resistor definitions R54, R55 and R56. The picture shows 3 solderpads next to the locations of the SMD resistors. For the factory set output of 2.5V a (standard) connection is made between R54 and the solderpad next to it. The spaces between R55, R56 and the solderpads next to it are open (this means: no connection exists). |
Lowering the output on the tube-output board is a matter of adding solderjoints. The following pictures show you how to create an outputvoltage of 1.25V. If for whatever reason you plan to do this, disconnect all external AC and signal cable-connections, remove the board from the AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 (see instructions) and solder without touching any of the components on the board!
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This part of the board defines the outputvoltage of the right channel. Notice the resistor definitions R40, R41 and R42. The picture shows 3 solderpads next to the locations of the SMD resistors. For the non-standard output of 1.25V an extra connection is made between R41 and the solderpad next to it. The space between R42 and the solderpad next to it remains open (this means: no connection exists). |
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This part of the board defines the outputvoltage of the left channel. Notice the resistor definitions R54, R55 and R56. The picture shows 3 solderpads next to the locations of the SMD resistors. For the non-standard output of 1.25V an extra connection is made between R55 and the solderpad next to it. The space between R56 and the solderpad next to it remains open (this means: no connection exists). |
The following pictures show you how to create an outputvoltage of 0.7V. If for whatever reason you plan to do this, disconnect all external AC and signal cable-connections, remove the board from the AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 (see instructions) and solder without touching any of the components on the board!
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This part of the board defines the outputvoltage of the right channel. Notice the resistor definitions R40, R41 and R42. The picture shows 3 solderpads next to the locations of the SMD resistors. For the non-standard output of 0.7V an extra connection is made between R42 and the solderpad next to it. The space between R41 and the solderpad next to it remains open (this means: no connection exists). |
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This part of the board defines the outputvoltage of the left channel. Notice the resistor definitions R54, R55 and R56. The picture shows 3 solderpads next to the locations of the SMD resistors. For the non-standard output of 0.7V an extra connection is made between R56 and the solderpad next to it. The space between R55 and the solderpad next to it remains open (this means: no connection exists). |
Raising the output on the tube-output board is a matter of cutting the standard connection. The following pictures show you how to create an outputvoltage of 5.0V. If for whatever reason you plan to do this, disconnect all external AC and signal cable-connections, remove the board from the AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 (see instructions) and cut the standard connection without touching any of the components on the board!
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This part of the board defines the outputvoltage of the right channel. Notice the resistor definitions R40, R41 and R42. The picture shows 3 solderpads next to the locations of the SMD resistors. For the non-standard output of 5.0V the standard connection between R40 and the solderpad next to it, has to be cut. The spaces between R41, R42 and the solderpads next to it remain open (this means: no connections exists). |
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This part of the board defines the outputvoltage of the left channel. Notice the resistor definitions R54, R55 and R56. The picture shows 3 solderpads next to the locations of the SMD resistors. For the non-standard output of 5.0V the standard connection between R54 and the solderpad next to it, has to be cut. The spaces between R55, R56 and the solderpads next to it remain open (this means: no connections exists). |
You need our TjoebSjoes kit in which you find: 4 TjoebSjoes and 4 small copper screws to mount the TjoebSjoes to the bottom of the cabinet.
1. Screw the small copper screws in the
TjoebShoes.
2. Remove the 4 standard OEM feet.
3. Screw the 4 TjoebSjoes handtight into the original threaded holes.
IMPORTANT! Be sure to insert them in the same orientation as the stock ones (shown below) which is indicated by the "notch" on the opamp itself or the "printed notch" on the pcboard it is mounted on (in case of the AD/LC825).
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Locate
the Philips Dac chip and the 2 opamp chips.
Using your fingers and nails, gently remove each chip and set them aside. Be sure to pull them straight up as to not bend or break the pins (Before doing this, please discharge yourself by touching for a short moment with 2 full hands a grounded metal surfaceground and if possible keep one hand in contact with this metal surface while you remove the chips with your other hand). |
| Unplug the cable from the socket CN1251 indicated in the picture on the right. Push the cable out of the way, as shown in the picture. Disconnect this cable from the nylon clip that holds the 2 ribboncables. Leave the small cable in the nylon clip. |  |
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Take
the TjoUpsampler out of the plastic bag, remove the antistatic foam from
the connector. Be carefull! This connector with the tiny pins is very delicate!!Holding
the TjoUpsampler, plug the cable into the Tjoeb board as shown in the
picture to the right.
TIP: Turn the TjoUpsampler upside down, and place it on top of the transport, then plug in the cable. It only plugs in one way, so if the cable does not go in easily, you have it backwards. |
| Once
you have connected the cable from the TjoUpsampler to the outputboard,
align the 8 pins under the upsampler board with the sockets indicated on
the right picture. Be careful not to bend or break the pins of the
connector. These are very delicate!!
Do not use the third socket where the Philips DAC was before. That socket is now empty. |
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Plug
the loose cable coming from the transport into the socket on the TjoUpsampler
marked “From Transport”. Bend both -stiff- cables in such a way
they push the board downward and that the board does not move. Place one Tjoeb damper on each tube as shown below. This
will help to anchor the board.
On the left is how the TjoUpsampler should look when properly installed. You’re done! Now plug your Tjoeb back in, and enjoy! |
All pictures (thank you Mr. Kevin Deal) are taken from the
backside of the AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000.
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Long legs can be dangerous. The AH! TjoUpsampler has a LONG legs connector. These legs are made from fosfor-bronze whixh is hard material and therefor breakable if handled the wrong way. NOT all pins however are electrically connected. Have a look in the picture to see if a broken leg is a problem or not. NC stands for No Connection. |
| In case of a fatal broken leg, you can always send in your TjoUpsampler and we will have it fixed immediately for you. |
In some areas in the world The AH! TjoUpsampler caused a "heat"-problem. Due to a local off-standard AC-voltage one of the voltage-regulators on the Njoe Tjoeb outputboard runs too hot and could not dissipate enough to keep on working. In most situations the system was working again with "cover off". That is of course not a real-world solution, but at least it gave us enough indications to find out what the problem was and how to solve it. The solution is very simple: add a cooling-device to the voltage-regulator. See the picture of the voltage-regulator with the cooling-device installed.
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The installation of the cooling-device is very simple. Just sliding on until it doesn't go any further. That's it. |
The question sometimes is: does the signal for the
headphone-output go through the tube-circuit? YES, it does, BUT ... The small
board just before the headphone-output is not exactly helping to keep it as good
as it is. The OEManufacturer added this board and we did not really think it was
important enough to modify it in EVERY machine. However if you want to improve
this board, we can give you some information how to do this. It's quite simple:
1. Upgrade the pcboard by replacing 4560D JRC
0138J with Philips NE5532N.
2. (Re)place 470uF/25V
Philips 136 series capacitors (2x) on point 2601 and 2602.
Option: Further improve by replacing the wires/cables going to the board.
In detail:
1. Disconnect
your AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 from AC and from the rest of your
hifi-equipment;
2. Remove
the topcover as described above;
3. Disconnect the ribboncable from connector CN1506 on the Njoe Tjoeb
outputboard (behind the cd-drive);
4. Cut and remove the tie-wraps which hold this ribboncable;
5. Disconnect the free-moving wire with the blue/black ribboncable;
6. Disconnect the groundcable on the side of the cabinet (with the front of the
machine towards you on the right frontside);
7. On the right frontside find the small headphone board (behind the headphone
outlet);
8. This board is connected to the front with 2 Torx T-10 screws;
9. Turn the cd-player so the backside is facing you;
10. Look under the headphone board and notice a metal plate which is connected
with 2 screws;
11. Check how the metal plate is connected as in the end you have to assemble it
the same way;
12. Start with totally unscrewing and removing 1 of these screws;
13. Unscrew the other screw for a small part so you can remove the metal plate;
14. Now you can slide out the headphoneboard;
15. Desolder the 4560D JRC 0138J opamp with help of desoldering-litze and
replace with a new opamp model Philips NE5532N;
16. Locate positions 2601 and 2601 on the headphone-board and (re)place 470uF/25V
Philips 136 series capacitors. Note the + and - locations on the board;
17. Remount the headphone-board in the cd-player;
In case you want to use the original (ribbon)cables:
18. Reconnect all (ribbon)cables and mount tie-wraps as originally;
19. Check everything done another time and
20. mount the
topcover and connect the AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 with your
(pre-)amplifier and the AC wallsocket.
ATTENTION! If you don't use your headphone output, you might want to disconnect it from the Njoe Tjoeb outputboard. Some people report that this improves the general sound quality.
The AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 comes factory preset with an outputvoltage of 2.5V. This you can measure at the cinch outputconnector with a digital multimeter as long as it can measure AC Voltage at 1000Hz. You need a test cd with a 1000Hz 0dB testtone.
If for whatever reason you intend to change the standard outputvoltage, you can "pre-test" the effect of the "new" outputvoltage by changing the standard outputvoltage with your remotecontrol. We measured the output with different settings of the Marantz remote volume control. These are approximate and the result of a 220-240V player used at 230V AC. The voltage on the RCA output connectors was measured from going down upwards:
| Njoe Tjoeb 4000 Display setting | Output Voltage Njoe Tjoeb 4000 |
| Vol Min | appr. 150mV |
| Vol 1 | appr. 275mV |
| Vol 3 | appr. 535mV |
| Vol 7 | appr. 1,0V |
| Vol 11 | appr. 1,55V |
| Vol 15 | appr. 2,0V |
| Vol 19 (max) | appr. 2,55V |
You can get VOL FIX bij push EDIT and HOLD till the text VOL FIX comes up. This gives you also the maximum outputsetting. But ... you can NOT adjust anymore the volume with your remotecontrol. If you want to change this, push EDIT till the text VOL MAX comes up in the displaywindow. Now you can again adjust the volume with your remote-control.
Sometimes after switching off
the cd-player (with the main switch) the tubes are still on, sometimes they are
not. What's the secret, what's the trick?
If you don't want
to leave the tubes heated (because you are using expensive, rare tubes): switch
the cd-player off while there is still a cd in the drawer.
If you want to leave the tubes heated:
1. Don't switch the player off or
2. Switch the cd-player off while there is no cd in the drawer AND (during the time) the display reads NO DISC.
If you use De Mat, please position it very carefully on the cd. If not, you can "loose" it! and you have to take off the cover to find it back.
Please remember that De Mat is designed for use in cd-machines. NOT in dvd-players, allthough some machines might accept it. In a dvd-player most of the time, there is litterally not enough space to use the cd-mat. Also the rotationspeed of dvd-machines is much higher. That is also the case with SACD machines, but most player have no problem with that as far as we know. Philips 1000 does not like the use of De Mat, while the Sony's have no problem with it. If you start playing the cd using De Mat and you hear strange noises, immediately push the STOP button and don't use De Mat with that machine.
If for whatever reason you have to transport your AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000, think of the following:
1. Use the original packaging with the spring-loaded
bottom!
2. Remove tubes and cd-clamper!
3. Remove TjoUpsampler (if available) and pack this item very carefully!
Attention, the connectorpins are very fragile!
4. Move the laserhead into transportposition.
This will give you the maximum protection for a safe journey for your AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000.
The answer is: non-inverting!
Transportation can give some unexpected and unwanted results. In case the AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 display gives the message "disc not finalized" while a normal cd is inserted, please contact us for a solution ... you most probably need a new lasermechanism.
All functions of the AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 work, but you don't get any sound and tubes do not glow.
1. Disconnect AC cable and signal cables.
2. Remove cover as described before.
3. Remove transparent cover from fuseholder found on small powersupply board.
4. Remove the fuse and check if the fuse is defective or not. ATTENTION! The fuse may LOOK good, but measure defective! The best is to use a multimeter and measure, or if you don't have a multimeter, check with a battery and small lamp while the fuse is in between.
5. If the fuse proves to be good than check the fingercontacts of the fuseholder and bend these inwards for a maximum mechanical and electrical contact. ATTENTION! Be sure the cd-player is NOT connected to AC!!
6. In case the fuse is indeed defect, please replace with a new fuse:
a. for 220-240V with 250mA slowblow and
b. for 110-120V with 500mA slowblow.
7. Reinstall the transparent cover of the fuseholder.
8. Reinstall the topcover as described before in this section.
No functions of the AH! Njoe Tjoeb 4000 work, and you don't get any sound. The machine is totally dead.
1. Always check and, if necessary, replace the main fuse as described before.
2. Than check smd-fuses F1 and F2 on the Njoe Tjoeb outputboard with a multimeter. If one of these or both are defective, replace these with 2A slowblow 1206 fuses. If these are not available or if smd soldering is "not your thing" than you may remove the original smd fuses with a small tip soldering and replace the fuses by a solderbridge. Testing has shown that this gives no further problems whatsoever and some owners even claim a better sounding with solderbridges.
My Njoe Tjoeb reads "No
Disc" or "Disc not finalized" even though there is a CD in the tray. The
transport is not spinning.
Your CD player is locked in "transport mode." This can happen occasionally
during shipping, or generally whenever the player gets hit hard by something (or
someone). This is a very easy fix that works 99.9% of the time. First, open the
CD tray, then unplug the power cord, leaving the CD tray open. If you were to
put a disc in the tray and look directly above the disc, you would notice a
portion of the CD is obscured from view by the faceplate. Use one hand to hold
the CD player, then take your other hand and gently pull the tray out toward you.
The tray should come out another 1/4 inch or so. You may hear a slight "POP!"
sound from the gear. That is normal. Put your disc back in, plug the power cord
back into the wall, and close the tray. The transport should now recognize and
play the CD. If you still get the same error message, contact us.
You have a blown fuse. Find the small circuit board next to the power transformers. On that board is a fuse under a plastic cover. Remove the fuse and replace with the same value fuse. For North American players (120v), the fuse value us 500mA (milliamp) slow blow. For 220v players, the fuse value is 250mA slow blow. Even if the fuse looks good, it may still be bad. The way to know for sure is to use a multimeter to check continuity. Do that by touching one multimeter lead to one end of the fuse, and the other lead to the other end. If your multimeter does not give you a reading, the fuse is blown.
Just because this has happened ... before you go any further, make sure the
volume control on your Njoe Tjoeb is at "VOL MAX."
Your upsampler may be bad. Remove the
upsampler and re-install the stock DAC and op amps. Refer to the picture on the
left to see the proper position and orientation of each chip. It is VERY
important that you install the chips just as you see in the picture!
If you install the chips correctly, and the player now is giving you output,
that means the upsampler is defective.
If you still have no output, or if you do not have the upsampler, double check
the position and orientation of each chip to make sure they are seated in the
socket correctly. Check all cables make sure they are securely connected to the
output
board. If you have done all that and still get no output, you may need a new output board.
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